Tag Archives: Ork Flyer
Got some time tonight to work on the blasta bommer. I knocked out the base shapes for the tail – this should clear up a couple of questions floating around. Badfangs suggestion about raising the tail engines up so they’re not directly in line with the front engines was a good one. I accomplished it in a slightly different manner though.
The lower tail tips are only poster tacked in place as I don’t have enough of the right size channel to assemble them the way I want to – sandwich technique much like the front wings. This shows the general shape and position of everything now.
I’m on vacation now for a week so there will be no more progress for the next 8 days as I’ll be kicking it lakeside with beer, books and food. Once I get the framework on the tail done I’ll start paneling the beast, then the detail work beginning with the Deff Arsenal in the nose. That’s gonna be a lot of fun.
Enough of my rambling, here’s the pics.
Spent an hour working on getting the wing/engine connector worked out. Nothing too complex really. Carefully drilled out a hole big enough to just fit the 1/2 PVC into in each engine housing. Cut some pvc and temporarily hot-glued it in place. I then used a snake of plumbers putty and sealed it up good. Let it cure for 1/2 an hour and test fit the parts.
This is a closeup of the interior of the connection to the 4-way piece inside.
It’s only getting bigger. Now that I’ve got the majority of the weight of the wings attached I find the balance is just fine. Not a wobble to it.
The missus is out for a couple of days with our daughter in Chicago so I’ll have a lot of alone time the next four days to get a bunch of work done. I’m hoping to have both wings worked out by Tues./Wed. Then I can start on the tail frame and then start thinking about the smaller details like the deff arsenal in the nose and the cockpit.
My tripod came in yesterday and got the chance to get it ready late last night. Here now, in excruciating. boring detail, is how I modified the tripod for my bommer.
Here’s the original tripod, maybe $20 tops online (Amazon.com I think). It’s rated to hold up to 2 pounds but after getting it in the mail and wrenching around with it for a bit I think that is determined by the swiveling head and not the actual tripod support legs themselves.
The stand itself is pretty sturdy. When I was finished I “stress” tested the hold by putting the plane as it is so far on it for normal use, then stacked my two skullhammers on top (as best I could) with different weight distributions and not only did the connection hold fine, the balance stayed pretty stable as well. I’m not worried about this thing falling over one bit.
I disassembled the multi-axis head down to it’s component parts. I wanted to see if I could keep the swiveling aspect of the pan head since this will give me more placement options on the table with the skinny legs, then simply turn the plane in the direction I need. The part I’m most interested in is the center pivot/swivel joint. I need this (the black part) to fit inside the threaded pvc connector.
Ten minutes with the bench grinder and viola! The head part fits snugly inside the pvc connector. I drilled a matching hole in the pvc connector so I could pass the lock down screw through it. Because of the way the lock screw was designed, I had to cut the edges of that down so the threads could meet the original swivel head part inside the pvc connector.
I applied a pit of plumbers putty inside the pvc connector and made sure I spread a thin coating around the inside barrel portion of the connector, then shoved the pan head part into it, centered it on the lock screw hole and added some more putty around the bottom for good measure. After curing I put the whole thing together for testing.
As I mentioned earlier, My biggest concern was “is this gonna hold? Did I cheap out too much and not get a sturdy enough tripod?” My fears were quickly put to rest. Because I changed the way the tripod connection system worked, the listed weight limit for the pod was pretty much nullified. I put some pretty good pressure on that thing, to point where I was going to break something, and it held just fine.
Here’s scale shot of the finished support system with a little Barry boy for fun.
I’ve started cutting parts for the main engines (as seen in the last pic) and will be starting work on them today. I might switch to the nose for some variety – besides, I’m excited to see all the weapons I can cram into the Deff Arsenal!
Stopped off at the hardware store at lunch today and picked up some pvc and epoxy putty. I picked up 1×4-way connector, 1xT connector, a male/female threaded connector, a 2′ piece of pvc pipe (all in 1.2″ dia.) and two tubes of plumbers epoxy putty for around $12. Nice and cheap!
I get home and lay the pieces out for test fitting…
GASP! I had always intended to us 1/2 pvc as my main internal structure so I based my ribbing spacing at 3/4″. Way more than enough room, right? Uhhh… As you can see, the connectors are wider than 3/4″. Me being the non-genius that I am, didn’t take into account that the connectors (which have to fit inside the ribbing too) would be much wider than the 1/2 pipes them selves since they fit OVER/OUTSIDE the actual 1/2′ tubing. If I ever do a second blasta boomer, I know to base my spacers on the dimensions of the CONNECTORS! not the pvc pipe I’m using.
This will mean i have to cut out one spacer to let me get the connectors inside – the angles I cut them at hinders this a swell so the Dremel gets a good workout and cutting away some of the interior ribbing to get everything in there – more of this can be seen in the last photo of the post.
Here’s rough placement (outside the ribbing) to see where I plan on placing the connector points.
Now, the placement of both the 4-way and the T connector are completely guesswork. I have no idea of how heavy this thing will be in the end, where the actual center of balance will be so I I’m doing a “best guess/cross my fingers” placement. I know pox’s build had the center of the wing/fuselage cross point as the center of balance where the tripod connected to the plane. I’ve decided to change that a little – we’ll see if it bites my in the ass later. Because of the estimate weight of the tail I don’t think this would work in my case.
If things turn out to be way off balance I’m assuming it’ll be in favor of the nose. The way I’m building this (nose to tail), I’ll be able to easily hide extra weight in the tail section as I fill it in to counter that. Again, I’m hoping that’s how it’ll work.
Here’s the putty I purchased. I couldn’t find the brand pox suggested but I’m pretty sure this is reasonably close – and it’s really cheap. It’s around $5-$6 a tube. You can see some of the carnage I had to inflict on the internals to get the connectors in there..
Here’s the “backbone” showing the final placement. There will be a short piece coming out of the front side that will be glued to the nose plate and a longer piece extending through the tail to give maximum support across the entire length of the plane. I’ve decided to leave the side wing connectors open and have a short piece of pvc coming out of the wing to make them removable. PVC fits together pretty snuggly so I’m not to worried about connection strength – the wings won’t be that heavy.
I’m hoping to have the rest of the “backbone” finished and puttied down by the end of tonight and maybe started on the main central structure of the wings sometime this weekend.
A note on the putty… I read the instructions inside the tube and they mentioned something about wearing rubber gloves of some sort. I kinda blew this off as being “over protective in this litigious society”. Nope, for two reasons. One, not only does it get sticky when you’re kneading it, the stuff will get embedded into the pores of your skin and be hell to get off. Remember, this stuff sets up like concrete steel – imagine that in your pores. Second, it gets hot! I was surprised by how much heat is generated by the chemical process while mixing. This does make it a little trick when trying to apply this in tight spaces (as I did) but the latex/rubber gloves were worth it in the long run.
(yes, I spent 15 minutes trying to remove the compound from my skin after the first application).
Scaled up the bommer plans today. This is a full size drawing/outline.
I’ve included a Barry shot using a few other models for scale. Skullhammer, standard battlewagon, trukk and a few boyz.
And I went through my bitz boxes to see what I could use so I wouldn’t have to scratch build. I got lucky by having enough/more engine parts so this one will have a little more power! Yeah!
Now to do a front scale for making templates. Woohoo!
Just to tease the living crap outta ya all. I’ve started work on the Blasta Bommer tonight. I’ve done my initial digging through my bitz boxes and did some preliminary studying of the Forgeworld Aeronautica models and re-combed through what can be found of Pox’s insane build. I’ve sketched out the general scale and I’m not making it nearly as big as Pox’s. His was nearly two feet long, mine will be a more modest 16″-18″ long with a wingspan somewhere around 20″-22″. To prove I’m not kidding, here’s the initial stage…
I’ll be making mine a combination of the features I like amongst all the options available on Forgeworld. I like the banded engines much like pox did but I like the double stacked tail fin with twin engines. I’ll be using a similar design for the nose that pox did as well. I won’t be modeling each side door gunner though for a couple reasons. One, you don’t see them that much as pox found out – and I don’t have enough of the BW gunners and really don’t feel like modeling all of them. Easier to make portholes with big shootas sticking out.
I’m actually hoping to be fairly consistent with the build on this and not let long gaps in updates. I’ll do some more preliminary scale drawings to shore up more details so I know what to build into hte main structure and I need to find a small tabletop tripod and make sure this thing is supportable.